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Do I need a speed controller (brake) and load the driver for homemade wind turbine engine?

I made a wind turbine using the car alternator (14v monkey business, 43A, rated rpm 1500) with 1:10 bearings and 10 'diameter wooden blade. The alternator does not produce energy without batteries connectind incorporated and the voltage regulator (cut out of the system) to cut the burden battries when it reaches 14 volts. In this turbine i dont use Roter any speed controller (brake) and the electrical charge controller. At the rated speed of the alternator is working well. But if over time the wind speed, is this the alternator voltage regulator of this wok? Or demand brakes and charge controller?

An alternator is different from a generator to an alternator generates power AC rather than DC. With a car alternator, rectifiers and regulator are integrated voltaage to change alternating current to direct current voltage level suitable for a topping charge of lead acid battery (14.4 VDC). Where, when the gearshift of a generator rotor, the voltage changes, but when changes the speed of the rotor of an alternator frequency changes in the AC sine wave which is not necessary to regulate the speed of rotation of an alternator, where within the parameters of the alternator. Therefore, generators alternators replaced in cars, because the RPMs differ widely from the highway at the speed Cruising in the city running. A generator designed to charge at highway speeds is not loaded when driving in town and a generator designed to charge in the city of overloading on roads. At higher speeds, producing a car alternator would have only small ripples to a higher frequency, but this is usually filtered with a capacitor. You need to do something to protect high-speed turbine however, generally this is because the tail spring loaded so that fold flat to the propellers when released, the catch remains perpendicular to the propellers, but when winds reach a certain level, the capture is free, a simple mechanical governor can do this or you could wire a solenoid, up to a frequency to voltage converter with a zener diode in the transistor base control the power applied to the solenoid. Thus, when wind speeds reach a designated threshold, the tail folds flat against the rotating propeller windmill so that the propeller is the edge to the wind, protecting it from high wind speeds. He has to restore manually, but this is the easiest way brake of the turbine. Having a constant voltage of 14.4 V is adequate for phase 2 or absorbing additional responsibilities and probably unnecessary stage 1 of constant current bulk cargo, but once the batteries are charged, they have to go to a floating charge, where tension was reduced to 13 VDC and current limited to perhaps 1% of nominal current, rated current is the capacity in which the rated current of the battery dies in 20 hours, ie: a car battery would have a 48 AH C 48/20 or 2.4 amps and therefore the burden of entertainment at 20 mA. A car alternator is basically size battery charging with the current C nominal calculated as the exhaustion of the capacity in an hour so the number of 43A, which is because it assumes you want a battery mostly inside an hour of driving time. This basically means that you need a charge controller to protect your batteries. Never leave a battery acid lead in an add / load absorbing more than 48 hours, if you do boil the hydrogen from the electrolyte. Cuts probably why the alternator voltage regulator faced a charge to 14 VDC, I hope that cuts in when the battery voltage drops below 12.2 VDC Note that if you use batteries that are open, you can at least upper of the cells with distilled water and check the specific gravity of electrolyte in each cell. A battery is only as good as it is weaker Cell so you may have to make a compensation charge once a year that allow the batteries to be on the fill / load absorption of 10 to 15% longer than is justified by the level of charge therefore, evaporation of hydrogen from the load cell while the weaker cells to catch up in office Then fill the cells with low levels of electrolyte backup. Also, you do not want the battery room to get much hotter than by 80 ° F to keep it well ventilated. If you have a tin roof, you may want to consider installing sprinklers in the ceiling outside the room cool by evaporation, but without increasing the humidity inside the room. Buried probably use air-intake pipes and a combination of a fireplace solar heat and a wind vent to draw air through the buried pipes cooling air through the battery room and emptied out the wind and the fireplace or heat vent. That should help heat the battery compartment in the winter too, as the soil temperature is more or less constant throughout the year below a certain depth. The bad part about using car alternator is that it is for a 12 VDC system so if you can use the alternator a bus would be 24 V DC, can reduce the current needed by half. I've always wondered if this would call for driving two bus alternators connected in series outside of a helix to get 48 V DC from 48 VDC components in high flows are readily available from the telecommunications industry.

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